Mastering your coil builds: everything you need to know about building your own

We often talk about coils, builds, and resistors; all of these terms relate to reconstructible (rebuildable) hardware. Atomiser, dripper, RTA, RBA, RDA, RDTA—all these terms usually only mean something to those in the know. So, when you are new to vaping and feel the urge to transition to a different style of vaping—rebuildables—these words can be a bit daunting. The same goes for messages like "check coil" that your mod might display. Does this world belong exclusively to the experts? Not at all. There are plenty of tools available to help you learn and get started.

Far from exhaustive, here is a list of tools, apps, tutorials, and examples of various setups to help you smoothly learn the joys of coil building.

Feel free to jump in and share your own tips & tricks regarding coils and builds.

NB: Beginners shouldn't be frightened by the technical side of building. On a day-to-day basis, making your own coil essentially consists of wrapping a wire around a screwdriver. It's nothing to write home about.

To get started, you will need the following:

And an atty, of course...

First things first, what exactly is a coil?

It's a single strand of resistance wire (Kanthal, Stainless Steel, etc.) that features:

• A specific gauge/diameter (0.30mm, 0.20mm, 0.40mm, etc.) which you wrap around a tool (jig/rod) that itself has a precise diameter (1mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, etc.).
• By wrapping a certain number of turns (wraps) around this tool (4 wraps, 5 wraps, 5.5 wraps, etc.), you achieve the desired ohm value (0.70 ohms, 1.20 ohms, etc.) that corresponds to your preferred style of vaping (more vapour and/or better flavour).

And just like that, your coil is ready to be installed!

Here is a quick example (before we lose the thread):

0.30mm Kanthal, wrapped 7 times around a 2mm rod, gives a resistance of 1.20 ohms. This results in a flavour-focused vape, as we are above one ohm at 1.20 ohms.

A bit of theory

Before diving in, it's essential to understand why a thicker resistance wire yields a lower resistance value. Our micro-coil calculator is available to help you find the right value for your builds (though it doesn't support temp control wires or Clapton builds).

A simple build on the excellent Expromizer V2, ideal for starting out with flavour-focused vaping.

Something to remember: “The thicker your resistance wire, the lower its resistivity (closer to 1 ohm); it heats up faster and more intensely than a thinner wire. Wire resistivity is measured in Ω/m (ohms/metre)”. By Rirou on Atouvap.fr.

Another essential: Ohm's Law.

A classic cornerstone of electronics, this law dictates and determines how many wraps, what diameter, and what size the wire must be to achieve the desired coil. Some dedicated vapers learn it by heart, but thank goodness, it isn't absolutely necessary.

Ohm's Law allows you to determine a resistance value (in ohms) by dividing the voltage (in volts) by the current (in amps).

There, that's out of the way.

To build a coil, you need a few tools, which you probably already have at home:

Wire cutters, flat-nosed pliers, and screwdrivers. At least that much. The most important thing is to be 100% sure of the diameter of the tool you will use to wrap the resistance wire. This is why you can buy coiling jigs with various diameters in shops. The most common diameters best suited for vaping range from 1mm (quite rare) up to 3.5mm for the largest. 2.5mm is the most common, as a standard rebuildable atomiser doesn't offer an infinite amount of space to fit coils.

Something to remember: “The more complex the coil, the greater the need for precision tools, and there is certainly no shortage of those in vape shops...”

Coiling jigs: MMC Pipes, Kuro coilers, or even the little Phillips screwdriver bundled with certain atomisers can be used to wrap your turns. The crucial part is knowing the exact diameter of the tool.

The tools

The more gear you have, the more things you have to screw down. Sometimes a screwdriver is included in the package as a freebie. However, some attys, like the Mini Goblin, require no fewer than 3 screwdrivers. Therefore, a set of precision screwdrivers is essential. You will also definitely need a pair of wire cutters, which must be ultra-fine to clip wire flush in the most awkward and hard-to-reach corners.

It's also worth noting that more and more attys and drippers use hex/grub screws, meaning an Allen key is supplied with the hardware. Again, make sure to keep hold of these precious keys, or pick up a multi-size set from a hardware shop.

The ohm reader

This is the icing on the cake, as it allows you to check the total resistance value of your complete build once all coils are secured. Essential for those using mechanical mods, it means you don't have to screw the atty onto your mod or battery just to check if you've hit your desired 0.50 ohms. It also allows you to check for short circuits. However, you can perfectly well carry out these same checks on a regulated e-cigarette box mod.

No, I don't own shares in Coil Master!

Choosing your wicking material

The most widespread, widely used, and easiest material to master is cotton! It comes in all varieties: Japanese, French, American... everyone will form their own preference, but the most crucial aspect is the quantity. Too much cotton in the coil, and the e-liquid won't flow, leading to a dry hit. Not enough cotton, and the coil won't stay fed with liquid, also resulting in a dry hit. This is genuinely the trickiest part of building, and every atty has its own juice-flow design. You have to adapt to your hardware, because it won't adapt to you.

Choosing your resistance wire

A crucial step. The thicker the wire, the lower the resistance value will be, and the bulkier the coil. Some attys, like the Mini Goblin, are very stingy with build deck space, so 0.6mm wires are not welcome. The most common resistance wire is Kanthal. This composition of chromium, aluminium, and iron offers ideal properties (heat retention, resistivity, malleability) for vaping.

NB: Kanthal A1, Kanthal A, Kanthal D—what's the difference? Kanthal is a registered trademark (like Hoover for vacuum cleaners). Kanthal is an alloy of iron (75%), chromium (20%), aluminium for the remainder, and sometimes cobalt. The difference between these types of Kanthal comes down to the proportions used in the blend. Kanthal A1 (Fe/Cr 25/Al 5) is the most widely used in vaping.

Flat Kanthal?

Kanthal also comes in a flat profile, also known as ribbon wire. This wire is primarily used for Genesis builds. While it offers a larger heating surface area, it isn't the easiest to work with. It is also used to craft specialised wires like Tiger wire.

Comparison of the most widely used flat and round Kanthal wires:

Examples of builds using the most common round Kanthal A1 wires:

NB: For a dual-coil setup, divide the value of a single coil by 2. Example: 2 coils of 0.30Ω each will result in an atomiser build of 0.15Ω.

Other wire types:

Among the most common:

• Ni200 is 99% pure nickel. It is a so-called "non-resistance" wire that has a highly distinct resistance-to-temperature relationship. It is THE wire for temperature control par excellence, and must be used exclusively in that mode. Advantage: it withstands very high temperatures (up to 1440°C) and allows for very low resistance builds; dry burns are unnecessary. Disadvantage: very fragile during installation, micro-coils are not possible; the wraps must absolutely be spaced out for temperature control to work effectively. Example: 6 wraps around a 2mm rod with 0.20mm wire yields a 0.15Ω coil!

• Titanium. The second wire type after Ni200 used for temperature control, it withstands temperatures up to 1600°C before melting. Advantage: it is sturdier than Ni200 during installation. It also yields slightly higher resistance values, which increases the heating surface area. Titanium therefore delivers a softer vape than Ni200. Disadvantage: its safety profile ignites passionate debates. Safe or unsafe? The controversy rages on. What is certain is that it must only be used in temperature control mode and must never be glowed dry (zero dry burns) without juice-soaked wicking material inside. Titanium oxidses easily, leading to surface corrosion in air. Example: 6 wraps around a 2mm rod with 0.20mm wire yields a 0.7Ω coil!

• Stainless Steel 316L. Also known as SS316L. Closer to Kanthal in terms of handling, SS316L has the unique characteristic of being usable in both straight wattage mode and temperature control mode, provided your mod and chipset are equipped for it. Its main appeal in TC mode is that it is much easier to work with. Being sturdier, it prevents you from falling into ultra-low resistances after just 6 wraps. Stainless steel also has a reputation for delivering a rounder, smoother flavour profile than Kanthal. Example: 6 wraps around a 2mm rod with 0.20mm wire yields a 1.2Ω coil! Resistivity: 22.3 Ω/m for a 0.20mm wire.

Example of a build for temperature control: spaced wraps are mandatory!

Resistivity per metre / wire type:

• Ni200: Resistivity at AWG30: 1.3 ohms/m at a temperature of 20°C and a TCR coefficient of 620
• Titanium: Resistivity at AWG30: 9.6 ohms/m and a TCR coefficient of 350
• Kanthal A1: Resistivity at AWG30: 28.3 ohms/m at a temperature of 20°C
• Flat Kanthal (ribbon): Resistivity at 0.3mm * 0.1mm, resistance at 20°C: 48.0 ohms/m
• Stainless Steel 316L: Resistivity at AWG30: 10.6 ohms/m and a TCR coefficient of 100

Top-coil or Bottom-coil?

Rebuildable atomisers generally fall into two layout categories. When the coils sit at the top of the atomiser, it is called a top-coil layout. This is typically found in Genesis-style atomisers. The vapour produced is warm-to-hot. When the coils sit at the base, it is a bottom-coil layout. The coils heat at the bottom of the tank, giving the vapour time to cool down before reaching the drip-tip. This yields a cool-to-warm vapour. Logical.

A complex top-coil mesh build

Whether top or bottom, the number of coils depends on the atomiser design. For example, top-coil setups might feature dual coils on the Origen or quad coils on the Avocado.

Bottom-coil designs encompass most other attys. Single coil for configurations like the Taifun, Expromizer, Lemo, or Subtank with an RBA base, etc. Dual coil or more for attys like the Aromamizer, Bellus, Zephyrus, etc., as well as virtually all drippers.

A classic bottom-coil setup

Single, dual, and beyond

Within these build categories, we distinguish between single-coil atomisers (one lone resistance wire) and dual-coil decks. That makes two coils, you might say. Yes, but it doesn't stop there: on a dual-coil atty, you can sometimes run a quad-coil build. That's four coils! Mad, right?

Before going down that road, keep in mind that a dual-coil setup is primarily a method used to boost an atty's power and generate far more vapour.

Example: if I build a 1.0-ohm coil, adding a second identical coil will bring the total build value down to 0.5 ohms. As we well know in vaping, 1 + 1 = 0.5. A dual-coil setup halves the total resistance value of the build.

A twisted quad-coil build, typical for drippers

Genesis mesh! Say what?

A quick word on Genesis mesh building. Elite to some, the holy grail to others, it is more complex but incredibly fun to put together. Plus, mesh offers exceptional capillary action.

Mesh is brilliant for high-VG liquids. Opt for 300 or 400 grade sheets; they are less fine than 200 grade but much easier to work with. It also requires thorough oxidisation (torching the mesh with a flame) before installing it.

More details and info can be found here: "A method for mesh building on a Genesis atomiser"

Vertical or Horizontal?

Yes, installing your coils vertically is also an option. The benefit? A coil sized to the exact diameter of the airflow and centred directly in the air path, which improves airflow delivery and vapour production. The downside? Positioning the cotton, which has to wrap around the outside of the coil and feed correctly down into the juice channels.

 <em_>

Example of a single vertical build. Silica wick can be replaced with cotton

Proof right here!

Can you run a dual-coil build on a deck designed for a single coil? Yes, anything is possible, but mounting the wires gets a bit more treacherous. The original Subtank actually came bundled with a pre-built dual coil. It's not easy to replicate. The main hurdle, depending on your deck type, is securing two separate resistance wires under the exact same screw head. Wire choice becomes critical here. But as I said, it can be done.

Some builders even take it a step further with triple setups!

Standard coil or micro-coil = spaced or contact wraps?

The main advantage of a micro-coil (contact wraps) is the near-elimination of hot spots. Heat concentrates purely on the main body of the wraps rather than the coil legs. It is also simpler to compress. Spaced-wrap coils, on the other hand, are required for mesh setups and temperature control. While a micro-coil ramp-up time is faster, spaced coils excel at keeping flavours crisp and un-distorted.

Dual coils, they certainly have their fans...

Online tools to calculate your coils:

Incredibly useful for Clapton builds and exotic wire specs: Steam Engine.

Mobile apps to calculate your coils:

For Android: Vape Tool
For Android: Easy Vape

Clapton, Twisted, Tiger, Fused, and the rest...

• Clapton coil: The goal of this build is to create low-resistance wires that can handle massive heat. Claptons are known for having a "diesel effect", meaning they take a moment to ramp up and get hot.

• Twisted coils offer numerous options. This involves braiding multiple strands of wire (round, flat, Clapton, etc.) together. The idea is that tiny droplets of e-juice settle into the grooves of the twisted strands, effectively doubling your overall vaporization surface area.

• A Fused Clapton brings together two different wire types, like Kanthal cores wrapped with Nichrome, to craft a Clapton strand that is sometimes flattened. Fused builds achieve very low resistance values and are said to offer a longer coil lifespan than a standard build (though I've never personally verified this).

Parallel coils

A quick note on parallel coils, because they are straightforward to make yet incredibly effective. They offer a much larger heating surface area without the need for complex wire braiding; a parallel coil is simply two strands wrapped flush right next to each other. It is very simple to do, and you can mix things up by running a strand of plain Kanthal parallel to a Clapton strand (or similar).

AWG or millimetres?

AWG (American Wire Gauge) is the measuring system used to indicate wire thickness. In Europe, we tend to use millimetres, which means we can occasionally get confused reading Kanthal spool labels. For example, a 26 Gauge wire corresponds to a diameter of 0.40mm. Meanwhile, a 28 Gauge wire corresponds to 0.32mm; in France, we usually round this down to 0.30mm. The difference is minute, and the final vaping performance is practically identical.

Here is an AWG to MM conversion chart:

Time for action

Simple single-coil Kanthal build

Dual-coil Kanthal build

Dual-coil layouts are likely the most widespread build style because a huge array of atomisers are built around them. Unsurprisingly, it's the gold standard configuration for drippers. To bring the outstanding flavour capabilities of a dripper together with the convenience of an RBA tank, manufacturers invented "RTAs". Word of warning though: dual-coil builds are very thirsty on liquid! You will find decks featuring 3 posts (one positive, two negative), and increasingly, 4-post designs just like drippers. These are much more practical to build on when it comes to centering your coils perfectly above the airflows.

A classic example of a dual-coil layout on a recent atomiser deck

Lately, dual-post Velocity-style decks have been popping up everywhere. These iconic decks are massively popular because they are incredibly user-friendly. Hex/grub screws tightened with Allen keys guarantee your coil leads are clamped rock solid. It also opens up the possibility to mount substantial builds using all sorts of wire types, including the thickest cables. Brilliant stuff.

Dual-coil build using twisted wire

Quad-coil build

Shown here on a Velocity deck in two distinct build styles

Examples of builds using the most common complex wires:

Builds for temperature control

 Regardless of your choice of wire, building for temperature control mode follows very strict guidelines! Because the temperatures reached are high, you must space out the wraps of your coils. A 1mm gap is plenty. This is a lifesaver, because with thin wire like Ni200, you can easily end up with coils requiring 14 or 15 wraps—not always an easy thing to squeeze inside an atomiser chamber. This is why I have a soft spot for Stainless Steel 316L, which is sturdier and far easier to wrap into a coil. That's just my personal perspective.

Rule number two: Never dry-burn temperature control wire! There is no need, and it is highly discouraged. The wire should only heat up when fluid is present on the wick.

One more rule for the road: Ni200, Titanium, and similar wires are exclusively for temperature control mode on a compatible mod. Bottom line, that's just how it is.

A few helpful hints here: Tips for setting up Ni200 builds, which remain relevant for all temp control wire types.

Sub-ohm breakdowns, or “how many amps for my build?”

Crucially important for mechanical mods, you must know how to match your build's resistance to the capabilities of the battery you are using. Batteries possess a maximum continuous discharge rating (CDR) measured in Amps, which you must be fully aware of before venturing into sub-ohm territory and ultra-low resistances. Indeed, if you exceed this CDR limit (drawing more current than the battery can safely handle) while vaping at high wattages, it can be dangerous if the battery lacks regulated electronic protections. For standard vaping around 1.00Ω, the issue is less critical, but it's still useful to know how many Amps your build requires. Below is a summary table indicating the current draw in Amps based on the resistance value. Note that these values assume a fully charged battery resting at 4.2 Volts. Lastly, amp limits are often printed on the cell wrapper; if not, check the manufacturer's official specifications.

Further reading: "Calculating a build to get the best out of your battery" on Vapor Gate.

What gear should you start with?

For a dripper, a four-post build deck is ideal, and the same applies to rebuildable tanks if you intend to run dual-coil builds. Having 4 independent post holes is highly comfortable and convenient. Velocity-style decks, which are increasingly common, are exceptionally simple to build on and highly versatile. The Mutation X or The Troll are excellent options for tighter budgets. If you are looking for high-end gear, the Mirage V2 or Magma are spectacular. Personally, I have a weakness for the Aeronaut, which has a slightly more unorthodox build system but is guaranteed leak-free.

If you prefer the simplicity of a single-coil setup, a clearomiser featuring an optional RBA base is a great path to take. The Subtank RBA deck is one of the most practical to work with, alongside the Delta II by Joyetech for improved flavour delivery. For a dedicated tank, the Expromizer V2 remains a solid choice for a modest budget. There's a reason the Expro line has such a loyal following; it's a pure flavour-chasing atty, not a sub-ohm cloud machine. If anyone were to ask for my explicit recommendation, I'd suggest the Zephyrus V2.

The Expromizer V2, an excellent choice

Is Genesis building too complicated? Not at all. You can perfectly well set up a Genesis tank without mesh by using cotton instead, and the absolute champion for this is the Avocado by Geekvape. A total must-have!

DIY, did you say DIY?

Building your own coils, if you develop a passion for it, can become a time-consuming hobby that leads you into highly intricate crafting projects. What could be more rewarding than successfully executing a mega alien fused Clapton coil cooked up entirely in your own imagination? Mixing a truly great DIY e-liquid! Fair point. But you can absolutely create your own Claptons, twists, tigers, and fused wires from scratch. It's entirely possible, because everything is possible. Look no further than the incredible precision craftsmanship of Squidoode below for proof.

Now it's your turn to play.

You can also read up further on the subject here:

How to properly use your rebuildable atomiser.

How to choose the right rebuildable atomiser.